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Propane and Solar Hot Water


Oatsie

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Rick is correct.  We had a wonderful solar water heater in last rental.... BUT....(1) location could have been chosen better, becasue in late season as sun heads south,          heater had some shade which meant NO early morning hot showers     ergo wait for later in the day   (2) old propane water heater had been removed so no option in that case  for us      

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The key factors with most good quality units that are properly sized are:

1 - how much hot water is used after sunset.   Remember, it is like a battery, what is discharged after sunset is replaced with cold water that mixes with the hot.    Sizing should be 150 liters or larger for a typical 2 pp h/h.    Larger if there is use of a tub, hot water laundry, or frequent houseguests.   

2 - if a gas backup water heater is available, is it bypassed, or tied in, and if tied-in, is it automatic on-demand, or flow-thru tank style?    Both types can give great support to have 24/7 hot water with minimal gas use.

3 - is the solar water heater tube style or flat panel?   Tube technology is more efficient and heats more quickly.     

 

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  • 4 months later...
On 11/3/2023 at 7:45 PM, Usvetsinmexico said:

Ours solar water heater feeds our propane one.  Thus it doesn't need to kick on often esp since I turned it down. The solar water heater will burn you. But of course we are lucky it gets sun all day.

I recently installed a 12 tube type solar hot water heater in Chiapas. My surprise was that it actually spit boiling water out the vent tube which was about a foot higher than the cold water storage tank which was higher than the solar water heater. 

What I had done right was to use copper out of the hot water heater until a 3/4" Thermostatic mixing valve purchased off Alli Express which is also plumbed to the cold water side and reduces temperature to what is set. Highest without override is 38 degrees Celcius so thats what it is set to and has worked perfectly. https://bit.ly/thermostatic-mixing-valve

What I did wrong was to change to CPVC about a foot above the hot water tank where water was still boiling and it started to leak at the threads. I increased 3/4" copper to above cold water tank then increased size to 1"  with cpvc so any vapour bubble forming and blowing out the water might pass through the 1" area instead of blowing all water out ahead of it.  Also wrong was I hooked the cold side of hot water tank to PVC and it also started leaking from the heat so changed to a Flexible stainless steel type meant for hot water tanks. 
 

While the tube type seems to work good I think one should have a filter ahead and do have as any sediment in the water might accumulate in those gravity recirculating tubes and cause a problem a few years down the road. 

The main tubing in the premises I had done with 3/4" Pex ordered off Amazon but it should not be exposed to UV sunlight as that would degrade it, so if exposed wrap it and use acrylic latex on the wrapping. 

 

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IMHO, the above post has a lot of poor and confusing information in it.      Our system was supplied and installed by STI Solar Technology using 1/2 inch TuboPlus green pipe, it is a thermally fused copolymer pipe, made in Mexico by RotoPlas under license from the original German inventors, and is made with double walled construction, it is also UV proof, rated to 190 F, pretty much indestructible.      Have no idea why it is not used in US & C, as it is great stuff.      

1/2 inch is better for most homes because the volume in a  3/4 inch pipe of any distance means a much longer wait time for first hot water, unless you are using an on-demand down below, but even then, with decent pressure, 1/2 inch is more than sufficient for almost all residential needs.     

 

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