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Best Sealer For Clay Tile Floor of Mirador?


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I purchased 100% acrylic "Sellacril 2000 - Perdura" to seal my mirador roof/floor made of the standard 12x12 inch (approx.) fired clay tiles that do not have a fired glaze on them. I purchased the stuff from Home Depot in Guad and spent around $450US on it.

I spent a lot on time in preparation of the surface. First waited until April so it would be the driest. Then proceeded to sand the tile with a 14" orbital sander with sanding discs to roughen surface and remove existing old sealer followed by hand sanding areas missed. Cleaned very thoroughly (no water) with a final scrubbing and wiping of thinner leaving it perfectly clean with no residues or dust whatsoever. Then applied the stuff with brush, full strength (not diluted) as instructed on the can.

The sealer did not last 3 months and is pealing off in sheets! For some reason it did not seem to adhere to the clay tile even with my obsessive surface prep.

*What did I do wrong?

*Is the Sellacril 2000 just crap?

* Can anyone recommend a superior product?

* Can anyone recommend a local professional that could help me straighten this out?

Thank you all!

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This is caused by water vapor moving in and out through the tile. You can try to create a 100% waterproof barrier, including all the grout lines. The only 100% barrier I know of would use epoxy, preferably marine epoxy. But then you have a new problem, because epoxy turns yellow and chalky in the sun, so you have to coat the epoxy with an Aliphatic Polyurethane with a UV inhibitor, again marine, again expensive. I have never been a fan of acrylic products except when added to cement or plaster.

In the end, you have to ask yourself what is under the clay tiles? Is is a proper waterproof roofing membrane, with a multi-year rating? Without the membrane your roof will start to crack and leak on the inside. I think if you want your roof to look clean and natural, use sealer which allows some water vapor to come and go. I like Potassium Silicate or Keim Mineral Paints - but I have no idea where to buy them here. If you do manage to find them I have a large selection of alkali and UV resistant pigments which work well these coatings If you go "natural", with a permeable sealer, you will have to refresh and repair the grout once and a while. First chance you get, put the membrane in. Cheer up - at least we don't get frost damage here!

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Sellacril is awful stuff. It always peels off everywhere I have seen it used, whether there is moisture or not. I really like a product called Wismar. It is a mix of various waxes, with polyurethane, doesn't have nasty fumes, just wipe it on with a sponge, dries in half hour, then put another coat, 3-4 coats is good for a new or freshly sanded down floor. Your sponge or brush and hands will wash up with water. The first coat will penetrate the tiles. Looks milky when you apply it, and when water sits on it after, but dries clear. Never peels, just wears off in high traffic areas, then wash the floor well and put another coat or 2. I don't know where you can get it in the Chapala area, I get it in PV. Not stocked at Home Depot.

So sad that you went to all that work and used that garbage. I guess you will have another big job now to get it off, unless you can get it all to peel off in sheets like it is doing.

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This is caused by water vapor moving in and out through the tile. You can try to create a 100% waterproof barrier, including all the grout lines. The only 100% barrier I know of would use epoxy, preferably marine epoxy. But then you have a new problem, because epoxy turns yellow and chalky in the sun, so you have to coat the epoxy with an Aliphatic Polyurethane with a UV inhibitor, again marine, again expensive. I have never been a fan of acrylic products except when added to cement or plaster.

In the end, you have to ask yourself what is under the clay tiles? Is is a proper waterproof roofing membrane, with a multi-year rating? Without the membrane your roof will start to crack and leak on the inside. I think if you want your roof to look clean and natural, use sealer which allows some water vapor to come and go. I like Potassium Silicate or Keim Mineral Paints - but I have no idea where to buy them here. If you do manage to find them I have a large selection of alkali and UV resistant pigments which work well these coatings If you go "natural", with a permeable sealer, you will have to refresh and repair the grout once and a while. First chance you get, put the membrane in. Cheer up - at least we don't get frost damage here!

Thompson's Water Seal.

Sellacril is awful stuff. It always peels off everywhere I have seen it used, whether there is moisture or not. I really like a product called Wismar. It is a mix of various waxes, with polyurethane, doesn't have nasty fumes, just wipe it on with a sponge, dries in half hour, then put another coat, 3-4 coats is good for a new or freshly sanded down floor. Your sponge or brush and hands will wash up with water. The first coat will penetrate the tiles. Looks milky when you apply it, and when water sits on it after, but dries clear. Never peels, just wears off in high traffic areas, then wash the floor well and put another coat or 2. I don't know where you can get it in the Chapala area, I get it in PV. Not stocked at Home Depot.

So sad that you went to all that work and used that garbage. I guess you will have another big job now to get it off, unless you can get it all to peel off in sheets like it is doing.

Good question CHILLEN! Not sure if there is a barrier under the tile. Are you talking about a waterproof membrane like a rolled roofing or sheet material adhered to the concrete before laying down the clay tile floor surface or a painted on barrier under the tile? Is this how it is supposed to be done around Lakeside and is it common practice? More info, suggestions to this effect would be greatly appreciated and thank you for the tips. And yes, I'm grateful we don't get freezes here like we do back in Washington! I'd be moving farther south..........

El Saltos - I found "Thompson's Water Seal Waterproofer Plus Masonry Protector" online. The other stuff is for wood decks. Is this Thompson's sealer available in Mexico, if so, where? Thank you!

Thank you mudgirl for your confirmation, suggestions and concern. Yes, the Sellacril is peeling off on it's own, very little still left as my tile now is absorbing water like a sponge! Thanks for confirming the stuff is crap and that I'm not totally to blame! I like your suggestion of the Wismar. Was also able to locate online and it looks like it's manufactured in Guadalajara so it should be available here I hope. Just to confirm I'm looking at the right product; "Wismar Fusion" a water based blend of acrylic, polyurethane and waxes which cleans up with water? Looks promising and I'm grateful for you sharing your experience of this sealer with me.

Anyone else with experience, suggestions, recommendations on sealing tile on a mirador, please feel free to chime in.

Thanks for all the good advise from you experienced Mexico veterans!

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The membrane adheres to the roof and partially up any walls or cants. . You could use a paint on concrete water sealer, like they use for sealling basement walls up north, but membrane is better. As far as local practice, this may be a bit harsh, but based on what I have seen, when you are building a house for resale, if you can't see it, don't bother spending money on it. Unless this was an owner contracted house, built by an owner who specified materials and construction that were meant to last, and was there to make sure these materials were actually installed, I doubt if you have a membrane. This is the same philosophy up north, as that TV house inspector guy always says, local building codes are a minimum acceptable guideline only. If you don't have a membrane, join a very large club, and use a vapor permeable sealer and repair the roof on a regular basis. This is the case even if you have a membrane, but the membrane will stop water from getting into your interior ceiling which are a real pain to repair and paint.

By the way, if you do have membrane you have to be careful with it when installing any screws or fasteners, it could start a leak. Follow the manufacturer's instructions. Another neat trick, which I know is available in Puerto Vallarta at least, the white styrofoam cutters are now computer CAD/CAM controlled and you can order styrofoam panels with slopes in them for water runoff. They are all numbered and not too expensive. Controlling the water drainage is 3/4 of the battle for keeping a good roof.

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The membrane adheres to the roof and partially up any walls or cants. . You could use a paint on concrete water sealer, like they use for sealling basement walls up north, but membrane is better. As far as local practice, this may be a bit harsh, but based on what I have seen, when you are building a house for resale, if you can't see it, don't bother spending money on it. Unless this was an owner contracted house, built by an owner who specified materials and construction that were meant to last, and was there to make sure these materials were actually installed, I doubt if you have a membrane. This is the same philosophy up north, as that TV house inspector guy always says, local building codes are a minimum acceptable guideline only. If you don't have a membrane, join a very large club, and use a vapor permeable sealer and repair the roof on a regular basis. This is the case even if you have a membrane, but the membrane will stop water from getting into your interior ceiling which are a real pain to repair and paint.

By the way, if you do have membrane you have to be careful with it when installing any screws or fasteners, it could start a leak. Follow the manufacturer's instructions. Another neat trick, which I know is available in Puerto Vallarta at least, the white styrofoam cutters are now computer CAD/CAM controlled and you can order styrofoam panels with slopes in them for water runoff. They are all numbered and not too expensive. Controlling the water drainage is 3/4 of the battle for keeping a good roof.

I really appreciate your input CHILLIN. I'm sure you are right about my house not having the membrane under the tile. It was a one story spec house and I've found all sorts of obvious defects including plumbing problems resulting from shoddy workmanship and going "cheap". All this after having hired a local expat "engineer" to inspect the house before buying it who just rubber stamped and supplied me with a cookie cutter, fill in the blanks inspection report and discovered none of the problems. Lead me to think that an "arrangement" might exists between inspector and real-estate office???? Big waste of $600US that was charged (off topic, sorry).

I'm planning a remodel which would put another floor on the house, turning the current mirador into a master bedroom and raising the mirador one more story (assuming that the house construction can support another story). I will be sure to incorporate your valuable information into the new construction.

Thanks again CHILLIN!

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Pedromalo, glad you could find Wismar online and that you could probably get it in Guad. Didn't know it was made there. Yes, you will want the Wismar Fusion. They also make one that is just a mix of waxes, I used that inside the house and it was fine, but for outside, you would want the Fusion (and like I said, it will look milky when wet, like from the rain, but dries clear.). The one that is just waxes has a satin finish, the Fusion is shinier, but not that super-varnishy look like the Sellacril (until it peels off, that is).

A little goes a long way, so don't overbuy. You want to build up thin coats, not slather it on thickly. A gallon did about 4 coats on about 50 square meters. Advise using a sponge instead of a brush- you can keep squeezing it out of the sponge so you don't waste any. And make sure to shake it up well everytime you use it- if not, you will end up with a bunch of lumpy wax in the bottom of the container, and the stuff won't perform well.

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Pedromalo, glad you could find Wismar online and that you could probably get it in Guad. Didn't know it was made there. Yes, you will want the Wismar Fusion. They also make one that is just a mix of waxes, I used that inside the house and it was fine, but for outside, you would want the Fusion (and like I said, it will look milky when wet, like from the rain, but dries clear.). The one that is just waxes has a satin finish, the Fusion is shinier, but not that super-varnishy look like the Sellacril (until it peels off, that is).

A little goes a long way, so don't overbuy. You want to build up thin coats, not slather it on thickly. A gallon did about 4 coats on about 50 square meters. Advise using a sponge instead of a brush- you can keep squeezing it out of the sponge so you don't waste any. And make sure to shake it up well everytime you use it- if not, you will end up with a bunch of lumpy wax in the bottom of the container, and the stuff won't perform well.

Thank you so much mudgirl!

The Wismar looks like my best bet if the Masonry Thompson's seal is not available in Mexico. If and until I can move ahead with a re-model to add another floor, I need to waterproof the mirador as best I can to keep the water from soaking through to the living room.

Thank you for your detailed tips and explanations. You've been so very helpful and I appreciate your time.

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